Drunken bars

OK, this looks like nothing, but it actually represents rather a lot of work and moderate shoulder fatigue. I should have measured the hexagonal bar, but lets say it is 12mm (a half inch) in section for the sake of our thesis here.

The logical among you will observe the progression of evolution from left to right. Rusty bar...bar with sections drawn thinner...same bar with a series of reverse twists applied. I love the way the twists turn the lackluster edges of the drawn out bar into a much more dynamic element. I made two lengths of about a meter and a half each. I have yet to apply the twists to the one in the middle, but remembered to photograph it.

For the drawing out one can use a fairly hefty sledge and simply hold the bar over the proverbial "edge of the anvil". Proverbial because there is a very instructive book of this name if you are looking for blacksmithing hints. Hitting the work while it is over the edge and moving it back and forth spreads the metal longitudinally, drawing it out. It gets messy, but it is a waste of time to try and keep the bar hexagonal throughout the process, just get it to the section you want and try to keep it roughly round, then true up the planes of the hexagon on the flat of the anvil once it is the right size. I am still a novice, but drawing out is relatively easy, my next step is to become more proficient at upsetting. If you are looking to try your hand I recommend getting a gas saver for an oxypropane or oxyacetylene torch as a first step. This is a really useful tool and allows you to set your torch aside on its perch where it is automatically turned off, then pick it up and light it on the pilot flame to use it immediately. Heating just the area you want and then going to work with the hammer. Constructing a proper forge would be a second step.

In the twisting process this is very useful as it has to be done in small sections. You must start with the fat parts and get them a nice bright orange or slightly yellow, the thin sections can be done at any time after, but if they get any heat in them they will twist like crazy before you can get the fat parts to shift, so don't.

You can add an extra step to make a weird spikey structure by hammering the twists along imaginary flat surfaces again and then heating to untwist. I am not too keen on that, but I used it a couple of years ago for the plum blossom branches in a different door window grille. June 26 and July 22 2007 in the historical archive on the right.